CREATING OUR YARN
Creating the yarn is a very important stage in the production of our homewares. Choosing the right fleece to create the best yarn to make products that will last a lifetime.
The raw fleece is first sent to the British Wool
Board for grading and selling before scouring
to remove dirt and impurities. The clean natural
fleece is then sent to our friends at Laxtons,
West Yorkshire to be carded.
The combs known as slivers disentangle and remove any remaining impurities, the result is a thin web of aligned fibres. These webs are then divided and rolled over one another to create a continuous rope of fibre known as roving. These are wound into a ball ready for spinning.
Spools of roving are mounted on the spinning frame, the ends of the roving are drawn through small rollers to extend the wool fibres still further. Then the spinning machines give repeated twists to the roving thus converting them into yarns having different properties of varying strength, firmness, size and ply. We use a 2/8nm yarn, which is spun, especially for us, to our specification
DYEING OUR YARN
AT THE STUDIO
Once we have a colour theme in mind, we hand dye small amounts in the studio, just enough to experiment with on our handloom. When we are satisfied with a colour palette, using the Pantone system we match the hand dyed yarn to colour swatches to be sent for the dyers to replicate.
AT THE DYER
The process for dying our yarn is fairly simple. We use acid dyes as this ensures that the wool retains its fibre strength once heated and treated. Our selected dyes are also chosen to give excellent light and contact fastness, which are all key aspects for the longevity of all our products.
THE DYEING PROCESS
The yarn is dyed at an acid PH of approx 4.5 with a special leveling agent to help ensure an even dye. The dyeing process starts at 40oc, the temperature is then slowly raised to the boil at a rate of 1.5oc per minute. it remains at the boil for 45mins, then cooled, checked for shades before being throughly rinsed to remove any residual dyes and chemicals.
AT THE STUDIO
With our studio dyed yarn we get creative and experiment with colourways, patterns and details. When the sample designs are perfected we send all the technical information to our local state of the art weavers.
AT THE WEAVERS
Here our technical designs are input into the computerised warping machine to our specified warp pattern and length. The warp is installed into a 16 or 24 shaft dobby loom, from here we see the designs brought to life.
At the end of the weaving process the finished fabric is carefully checked by a specialist team to ensure that only the highest quality is achieved and ready to leave the mill.
It is all coming together, we are at the last stage in the process before the fabric is returned to us at our Leeds Studio.
The finished woven fabric travels a short distance to WT Johnsons & sons our finishers in Huddersfield.
To ensure that our customers only receive the highest quality our fabric is washed and dried to create a high class, soft durable finish.
The fabric is now at its very best and is delivered to our studio in Leeds where we hand make it into the beautiful products available to you, our customers.